Wow those are great shops. Are all the windows you make pine? I cant really get any thick pine boards here. Everything is douglas fir, which is great it just splits and tears out easily. That thick pine looks nice to work with.
Do you make the tennon on the shaper also? Are the frames bridle joints or mortised?
Most windows and doors are from pine. We can get very nice tight-grained pine from Sweden or Norway. Some of its heartwood is very 'fat' / resinous so we make sure to use that on the lower parts of windows for increased rot resistance. But sometimes we use white oak for extra durability or for details like 'drip-noses' and such. Sometimes we use mahogany or even teak if it's a 'fancy' door that's going to be lacquered or if making copies of historical ones.
To me douglas fir is an exotic wood :-) I remember they used beautiful, wide, flawless douglas fir floorboards when they refurbished the king's residence. Perhaps a bit on the soft side, and not very rot resistant for windows? I'm not really familiar with this wood.
Pine is nice to work with :-) But it has a coupla drawbacks: The resin in it gums up your tools something terrible, so it entails a lot more cleaning of sawblades and cutters (best to do that at once, before it hardens). And the pronounced difference in hardnesss between late- and earlywood can make difficulties when working end-grain or sanding flat-sawn surfaces.
How I cut the tenons depends on how many I'm making and how strong / good fit it needs to be. If one or two: by hand. Up to a dozen or so: bandsaw. Over a dozen I rig my shaper for tenon-cutting. This gives excellent accuracy and friction-fit but takes some time to set up and dial in. But once that's done it's very efficient.
Window frames get bridle joints, door frames get mortised. I'll get around to posting about this (sooner or later!), I just wanted to get the 'backstory-posts' done first.
Wow those are great shops. Are all the windows you make pine? I cant really get any thick pine boards here. Everything is douglas fir, which is great it just splits and tears out easily. That thick pine looks nice to work with.
Do you make the tennon on the shaper also? Are the frames bridle joints or mortised?
Most windows and doors are from pine. We can get very nice tight-grained pine from Sweden or Norway. Some of its heartwood is very 'fat' / resinous so we make sure to use that on the lower parts of windows for increased rot resistance. But sometimes we use white oak for extra durability or for details like 'drip-noses' and such. Sometimes we use mahogany or even teak if it's a 'fancy' door that's going to be lacquered or if making copies of historical ones.
To me douglas fir is an exotic wood :-) I remember they used beautiful, wide, flawless douglas fir floorboards when they refurbished the king's residence. Perhaps a bit on the soft side, and not very rot resistant for windows? I'm not really familiar with this wood.
Pine is nice to work with :-) But it has a coupla drawbacks: The resin in it gums up your tools something terrible, so it entails a lot more cleaning of sawblades and cutters (best to do that at once, before it hardens). And the pronounced difference in hardnesss between late- and earlywood can make difficulties when working end-grain or sanding flat-sawn surfaces.
How I cut the tenons depends on how many I'm making and how strong / good fit it needs to be. If one or two: by hand. Up to a dozen or so: bandsaw. Over a dozen I rig my shaper for tenon-cutting. This gives excellent accuracy and friction-fit but takes some time to set up and dial in. But once that's done it's very efficient.
Window frames get bridle joints, door frames get mortised. I'll get around to posting about this (sooner or later!), I just wanted to get the 'backstory-posts' done first.