The producer, Mikkel Selder, says you can heat it to 130°C and that the heat will both reduce the viscosity and open the pores in the cell walls so that the oil penetrates deeper. However, he cautions against too hot oil when you've used epoxy (max. 90°C). I don't know the reason for this (epoxy weakens at 90°C?) but I trust the man, so I heed his advice.
Thanks - I've never seen someone apply BLO before a hard wax finish before. What's the benefit over just two layers of the hard wax - penetration? Cost?
Does it alter the look of the finish vs hard wax alone?
First, some context: These kitchen stools are prototypes, an experiment in chairmaking and not goods for sale. This goes for the finishing process, too -- I get to try out new things I would not do if these were products for sale. I also get to use up finishing leftovers from previous projects.
That said, BLO was always going to be my primary layer; it penetrates deep when applied hot and makes for a robust base coat. The downside is that it looks a bit dull, so I figured an oil/wax emulsion would be chemically compatible and would begin building a sheen. It did, but not enough, so I finished it off with a soft beeswax that I could polish to a low lustre.
I don't know the answer to your last question. Try it out yourself some time :-)
I don't overthink these things ... I just use what I have at hand, based on previous experience.
I like the finish as well! I've had a lot of success with pure linseed oil, followed by oil / wax, with a topcoat of beeswax. I've been quite happy with that system and it seems to hold up well.
Heating the linseed oil before applying: that's interesting. I'll have to give it a go 😁
The producer, Mikkel Selder, says you can heat it to 130°C and that the heat will both reduce the viscosity and open the pores in the cell walls so that the oil penetrates deeper. However, he cautions against too hot oil when you've used epoxy (max. 90°C). I don't know the reason for this (epoxy weakens at 90°C?) but I trust the man, so I heed his advice.
Thank you for that detail. That's useful. I'll try heating some in the leg wax heater I use for my hide glue.
Really nice! Beautiful design, but it also looks substantial enough that you could sit for a good while in comfort.
Thanks! Yes, it's a sturdy seat -- a bit on the heavy side, in fact. But then again, it's not a camping chair :-)
Thanks - I've never seen someone apply BLO before a hard wax finish before. What's the benefit over just two layers of the hard wax - penetration? Cost?
Does it alter the look of the finish vs hard wax alone?
First, some context: These kitchen stools are prototypes, an experiment in chairmaking and not goods for sale. This goes for the finishing process, too -- I get to try out new things I would not do if these were products for sale. I also get to use up finishing leftovers from previous projects.
That said, BLO was always going to be my primary layer; it penetrates deep when applied hot and makes for a robust base coat. The downside is that it looks a bit dull, so I figured an oil/wax emulsion would be chemically compatible and would begin building a sheen. It did, but not enough, so I finished it off with a soft beeswax that I could polish to a low lustre.
I don't know the answer to your last question. Try it out yourself some time :-)
I don't overthink these things ... I just use what I have at hand, based on previous experience.
Glad we can benefit from your experiments :) I'll try some of my own!
I like the "twisted" look, that's fun and unique!
I like the finish as well! I've had a lot of success with pure linseed oil, followed by oil / wax, with a topcoat of beeswax. I've been quite happy with that system and it seems to hold up well.